Lining a sailboat or powerboat hull interior with wood strips.
On older or low-production-volume boats, where it was not cost effective to add a fibreglass hull liner, many boat builders cheaped-out by carpeting the hull sides. It's easy, cheap and OK while it stays dry and if well-kept. However, in the opinion of the writer, carpet has no place on a sailboat., especially where water or leaks are allowed to go unchecked.
So how do you apply interior wood strips to a previously carpeted hull? The following describes one method, which has been successfully used by Mike Aston when updating and improving older vessels.
This might help you with your project. This was a relatively time-consuming exercise, but the results were worth it. It was part of a total vessel restoration of a 1981 Cooper 353 Pilothouse sloop. This might not be the definitive solution in all cases, but the ideas might help you with your project. It could equally be applied to headlining replacement.
1. Strip out the old mouldy carpet and foam backing (if applicable) from hull. Clean up, remove any dirt or adhesive residue. It will probably look like rather rough, unfinished glass fibre. However, without the old carpet it will likely smell better already! Determine the best position for the backing strips/battens. Thoroughly sand these areas with 80 grit sandpaper to provide a key and then clean with alcohol or MEK or your favorite solvent or other method for cleaning fibreglass. Mark the positions of the battens. Cut strips of 1/2" plywood. (approx. 3/4" wide). If the hull is very curved, cut these about 75% of the way through every 2" or so of their length to make them bendy to conform easily to the hull shape. 2. Glue the battens to the hull (Sikaflex or similar). Ensure they remain in contact with the hull. Secure temporarily with tape, or props, as needed, until dry. Then fibreglass over these battens with fibreglass cloth or tape. 2" tape works well. I used 3 layers. One 1" tape centrally, then one 2" piece either side to ensure a good connection to the hull. Nothing to heavy or too rigid to avoid creating hard-spots. The result is 3 layers of fibreglass cloth in the middle of the batten to screw into later. Note the extra small blocks to take the window surround tray (if you have windows in your hull sides). 3. Gel-cost over the finished glassed-in strips to neaten any show-though when the wood strips are applied. You could use paint instead. No need to paint the whole hull side, because the insulation (if used) will hide the rest. 4. 1/2" thick insulation was added between the battens. This matched the height of the battens. Use double-sided tape to keep in place if required. The wood strips will hold in place. The window-surrond tray has been added. The hemlock strips will butt up to this. 5. Start applying the wood strips. I used clear hemlock as a lighter contrast to the teak trim. My strips were approx. 3/8" (10mm) thick by about 1 1/4" (32mm) wide to allow relatively easy bending in 2 planes. The front edges were chamfered approximately 1/8", the the strips were sanded before applying 3 coats of clear satin exterior Varathane varnish to seal them. Measure twice, cut once! I used #8 x 3/4" countersunk solid brass screws. I kept the heads visible to allow easy future removal. However, counterboring and plugging would be another option (if you have more time). I left a small gap at the ends to allow for expansion. This can be trimmed over afterwards. 6. Keep on adding strips. I used small spacers (approx. 1/16") to create consistent gaps between the hemlock strips. I chose the start at the bottom for this part, but you might want to start at the top in some circumstances, depending on the orientation of the vessel. Take some time to think this through for the best look. Strips are positioned, then pilot-holes drilled through into the batten. (Caution: don't go too deep here!) The strips are then clearance-drilled and counter-sunk, ready to screw-fit. I usually started at in the middle of a strip, ensuring the proper spacing, then drilled 2 or 3 more holes while holding or bending the strip if needed. Remember consistent gaps between the strips will keep the jon looking professional. Note also: Extra storage has been added in this settee back. This was previously inaccessible space wasted by the boat builder. Removable settee backs provide easy access. 7. Wiring for this speaker was hidden behind the strips. Notice some teak trim has been added to the right of the speaker. Take some time thinking about anything you wish to hide or route behind the panelling. strips are nearly finished. The top strips needed some adjustment to sit perfectly below the deckhead. In some cases a wider strip was made rather than use a very thin final strip. 8. Nearly finished, with teak trim strips added to perimeter. Just need to add the chainplate buttresses trim.
9. All finished. Just need to add teak plugs to chainplate trims. ...................................................................................................... The same panelling was used throughout the boat: A. Panelling almost complete in V-berth. B: V-berth complete.
| Click Photos to enlarge... 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. A. B. |
Copyright Mike Aston 2009-2010
